Beijing Creative Spaces

Photos by Shu and Joe

Navigating a city as in-flux as post-Olympics-bid Beijing is not for the unadventurous. Mundane tasks like locating a friend’s apartment (“Left at the little alley with the two chickens”), a bar (“Office tower 15. It’s locked, so take the emergency stairs by the side entrance to the second floor”), or a DVD shop (“See that furniture shop? Go through the door, down to the basement, and knock”) are complicated by walls, both physical and cultural.

Those willing to stick it out will find an interesting paradox: Beijing’s walls also help build social communities. When street routes change by the week, signage is spotty, and buildings are going up or coming down all the time, people need other people to help them get around.

The information gathered in this expanded Indexed for Beijing has been culled from more than a half dozen Beijingers who have done their best to help you find your way.

Joe Magliaro and Shu Hung Bio

Age: 31/30 years old

Brief bio, occupation: We spent the past two years living in Beijing, and are now en route to our other favorite “B” town—Berlin. We are currently working on a book about Beijing’s thriving creative community and hoping that our German work visas are approved.

Length of time in Beijing: 2 years

Nightlife

Bar Promise
Jianwai SOHO Building 15 2nd Floor, West Block 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang.
[Joe] There’s a scene in the last episode of “Twin Peaks” where Agent Cooper steps into a portal and is transported to a room where he comes face to face with The Man From Another Place. Walking into Bar Promise makes me feel like I’ve stepped through the same portal, but with a really nice scotch in hand. Only 12 seats in the house, so call ahead to reserve a few.

Ball House
40 Zhonglouwan east of Gulou (the Bell Tower), Dongcheng.
On our first trip to the Ball House, we wandered the hutongs for half an hour before swallowing our pride and calling a friend for guidance. It was worth it in the end, as the cheap beer flows freely and the various gaming options (pool, foosball) conjure a familiar basement rec-room atmosphere.

Bed Bar
17 Zhangwang Hutong and Jiu Gulou Dajie, Xicheng.
Cho, the owner of several bars and restaurants in Beijing, has a knack for creating cozy but sophisticated environments. Bed is essentially a sprawling courtyard residence done up in a modern concrete idiom. Possibly the best mojito in Beijing.

Song
The Place B108 (look for the massive LED sky screen), 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang.
We want to thank Neebing (aka DJ Lychee) for making sure that the DJ/electronic music options in Beijing aren’t limited to those whose monikers are preceded by terms like “superstar.” A night on the Gongti mega-club strip can be entertaining, but Song offers a better balance of good drinks, an attractively designed space inspired by stepped rice paddies, and a thoughtful roster of local and international musicians.

Shopping

DVD Supermarket
Meishuguan Dong Dajie south of the Sanlian Bookstore, Dongcheng.
[Joe] Shu prefers Tom’s DVD Shop, but for Criterion classics and ’80s eclectica, I’ll stand by the DVD Supermarket. Don’t forget to ask them about the buy-10-get-one-free deal.

Bing Ma Si Cultural Convenience Store
Dongmianhua Hutong off of Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng.
Newly opened one-stop shop for catching up with China’s independent music scene. Run by the Bing Ma Si (Maybe Mars) label. Also carries clothes, films, and books by local artists. We’re told that they will have ice cream and ice lollies come summertime.

Timezone 8
Dashanzi 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang.
The books can be pricey, but when your choice is paying a few extra bucks for Alec Soth’s new monograph or waiting for your next international flight, convenience often wins out.

emo+
SOHO New Town Orange Building Room 103 No.4, 88 Jianguolu at Dawanglu, Chaoyang.
[Shu] The first time I went to emo+, I was struck by the giant Eero Aarnio bubble chair suspended in the center of the store and the fantastic mix of hard-to-find design objects. You can pick up a Lomo camera here, and it’s one of the few stores in Beijing that carries Moleskine notebooks. Linda, the friendly proprietress and store curator, will be happy to answer your questions and guide you towards that perfect gift.

Mooi Living and Cafe
Dashanzi 798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu south of Galleria Continua, Chaoyang.
Mooi Living opened about a year ago, offering perhaps the only selection of vintage mid-century modern furniture for sale in China (imported from Germany). Be sure to check out the Mooi Cafe behind the shop where Shannon makes amazing iced coffee in a lovely white-washed courtyard.

Events

André’s Salon
André is usually pretty busy with his day job—making sure that the TVCC tower will be completed on schedule—but he still manages to organize a monthly salon in his one-bedroom apartment. Over the past 18 months, he’s played host to some fascinating speakers from varying creative fields. Most recently, Michael Rock of 2x4 stopped in to talk about conspiracy theories.

Get It Louder
Biennial Art and Design festival that includes exhibitions, lectures and performances.

Midi Festival
The Beijing Midi School of Music sponsored its first festival in 2000 to promote local talent. Eight years later, the festival has outgrown its humble beginnings and is one of the largest outdoor music festivals of the year. Look for it in early October.

DIAF
The Dangdai International Art Festival features a three-week long program of exhibitions and events that can be encountered throughout Beijing’s gallery and performance spaces.

Resources

City Weekend
Fairly comprehensive and user friendly site for current events and listings.

Chinese Pod
Download free MP3-formatted lessons in Mandarin.